Temples of Assam - Maa Kamakhya - Part II

This is the second part of the article on Maa Kamakhya temple in Assam. You can find the first part here.

The temple of Maa Kamakhya PC: Mr Suresh N S

Kamakhya, the Shakti Peeta where the Supreme Mother's Yoni fell, celebrates menstruation, a key prerequisite for motherhood through the Ambubachi Mela, which symbolises the annual period of menstruation of Maa Kamakhya.

Interestingly, while menstruation is still considered a taboo and stigma in some places, states where temples follow tantric worship, celebrate menstruation as a symbol of motherhood. The Goddesses themselves in these areas are shown as menstruating regularly so that any stigma attached to it is removed. The Ambubachi Mela in Assam, The Rajo Parba or Rajo Sankaranti in Orissa and the Thiruputharattu in Kerala all celebrate menstruation.

Ambubachi Mela

Among these, the Ambubachi Mela draws thousands of pilgrims across the world to Kamakhya to participate in this annual ritual which happens on the seventh day of the Ashada month (21st or 22nd of June). This time is also considered to be the time when Mother Earth is menstruating, getting her womb ready to receive the seeds and seedlings for a fertile and rich agricultural season. Therefore, in order to give her rest, all agricultural activity is prohibited during this time. Devotees of Maa Kamakhya do not eat cooked food during the three days that Ambubachi is celebrated. They do not comb their hair, walk heavily or place heavy things on the ground.

The Yoni Peeta at Maa Kamakhya P.C. Internet

Ambu means Water and Bachi means flowing. In preparation of Ambubachi, the Yoni Peeta is covered with around 300 metres of cloth, which is provided by the Pandas (priests) with their names marked on the cloth. This cloth remains on the Yoni Peeta for four days. It is called Angavastra and this white cloth turns completely red with the Mother's menses. On the fourth day, called the Shuddhi day, the priests collect the Angavastra with their eyes covered with cloth. They line up on the steps to the main sanctum to support the passing on of the Angavastra safely and securely back up. The priests then collect the now red coloured cloth amongst themselves and then offer small pieces as Prasad to the devotees they facilitate in the temple.

The Yoni Peeta is then given a ceremonial bath and this day is considered to be the most auspicious day to visit Kamakhya. Couples longing for child birth, young women with delayed start of menstruation or those suffering from menstrual disorders, make it a point to visit Kamakhya on this day to be relieved of their problems for ever. Lakhs and Lakhs of devotees and tantric practitioners arrive at Kamakhya during Ambubachi Mela. They meditate outside the temple, focussing on singing devotional songs or listening to the glory of Maa Kamakhya. The Peeta is said to turn most powerful during this time, as the Mother herself is resting and in meditation. Therefore, people throng here to receive that divine vibration around the temple.

Deodhani or Devadhwani Festival

A Deodhani dancer at Kamakhya PC. Maa Kamakhya Devalaya

Equally important is the Deodhani festival. Deodhani or Devadhwani means the voice of the Gods. During this three day festival to celebrate the serpant goddess, Manasa Devi, the daughter of Sage Kashyapa is worshipped to be saved from snake bites. She is also seen as the goddess of Kundalini and Yogic power. Chila Roy had been bestowed upon the power to relieve the mother of the Nawab of Bengal from snake bite and from then on, Manasa Puja started being celebrated in Kamakhya as the Deodhani festival. During this time, a pitcher is installed to represent Manasa Devi. This pitcher has water, decorated with mango leaves and a wood apple placed on top. Clay figures of snakes are also placed behind and around the pitcher.  

Deodhani dance is performed by selected dancers shouting slogans and dancing to the tune of Dhole and drums. During the festival that is celebrated in the month of August, these dancers get supernatural powers and if they predict anything, the prediction comes true. Devotees suffering from physical ailments visit the temple during this time, and when they follow the medication prescribed by the Deodhani dancers, they are cured of their ailments.

Those selected as Deodhani dancers have to see Goddess Kamakhya or Kali in their dreams a month before the festival. From then on, they undergo several religious exercises and rituals under the strict supervision of their priests. They spend the best part of the day in meditation when the supernatural powers are bestowed upon them. On the first day of the festival, they are anointed with oil, ghee and kumkum and wear hibiscus garlands. The dhoti they wear symbolises the goddess they represent. These deodhas dance on sharp edge of swords or jump over sharp swords in moments of heightened awareness. After three days and nights of dancing, the fourth day is called the Visarjan day when the garlands are thrown into the Sowbhagakunda. They take a ceremonial bath in the kunda and perform pujas. The sacrificial pitcher in which Manasa Devi has been installed is then immersed in the Kunda after which the divine power of the Deodhas is also lost and they regain their human nature.

Durga Puja

In Kamakhya, Durga Puja is celebrated differently from other places. Here, Durga Puja starts a fortnight earlier than the rest of India. Instead of an idol of Durga being made, an image of Durga is drawn on a coarse bamboo mat which is plastered with mud from Brahmaputra. Kalasa Prathista is done in front of the idol of Maa Kamakhya in the chamber above the sanctum. On the eighth day, bigs and animals are sacrificed. The swords that were used to sacrifice the animals and trident are worshipped on the ninth day and a human form made of flour is offered as Bali to the Goddess and on the tenth day, the meat of the burnt birds and rice is offered to the Devi. The painted mat image is then taken in procession and immersed in Brahmaputra.

Devi in Kamakhya temple 

Kumari Puja

Kumari Puja is performed by a lot of devotees at Kamakhya, because it is believed that it is the easiest way to get the blessings of Maa Kamakhya. It is particularly performed by those who are seeking marriage, childbirth, defeat of their enemies or prosperity. The origin of Kumari Puja dates back to the time when Lord Vishnu was performing Kali Puja by chanting the powerful Kali Beeja Mantra 10,008 times. Suddenly an Asura named Kolasura appeared from Vishnu's heart. He started torturing all the Devas and Rishis. Unable to tolerate his torture, the Devas approached Goddess Kali. She assumed the form of a young adolescent girl (Kumari) and approached Kolasura and asked for food. The asura gave her some food to eat. The Kumari finished the food in a jiffy and asked for more. Kolasura kept giving her food but it was just not enough. Finally, Kolasura asked the Kumari to take what she pleased. She immediately ate up everything around including the Asura, thereby putting an end to him.

Usually, Kumari Puja is performed on the children of the Pandas. They are offered alta, flowers, fruits, sweets and other cosmetic items, their feet are cleansed by those performing the puja, and the priest chants mantras to please the Kumari. At the end of the Puja, the Kumari blesses those who are performing the Puja and Prasad comprising of flowers, fruits and sweets offered to the Kumari are returned to the devotees who take them home and consume them.

Dasa Mahavidya Shrines

Dasa Mahavidyas

Apart from Maa Kamakhya, there are shrines for the Dasa Mahavidyas in and around the temple. Kamakhya is the only temple in the world where the Dasa Mahavidya shrines are found.

1. Kali - The Kali Peeta is located next to the stairway in the Kamakhya temple. There is no idol here but Kali is worshipped as the tantra that is recited. The special day to worship Maa Kali is Saturday.

2. Tara Devi - She is also called Vak Devi or Nila Saraswathi. Her idol had been installed by Sage Vashista in the crematorium of Kamakhya and was brought to the temple complex by Acharya Brahmananda Giri. She is shown standing on a pyre and is depicted with three eyes and four hands, holding swords, a human head and water lily. She is worshipped on Thursdays.

3. Sodasi - The main deity of the temple when worshipped on Wednesdays as a deity of the planet Budha is called Sodasi.

4. Bhairavi - The Bhairavi in Kamakhya is worshipped as Tripura Bhairavi. She is worshipped on Sundays. Since Lord Shiva is also found here, Shiva Puja is also performed here. She is dressed in a red garment, with a machete, japamala, book and abhaya hasta in her four hands.

5. Bhuvaneswari - The Bhuvaneswari temple is found on top of the Nilachala Hill. She is the deity of planet Sukra nad hence worshipped on Fridays. She is also called Rajarajeswari. Childless couples go up the hill to worship her on Fridays to be bestowed with children.

6. Chinnamasta - Chinnamasta is headless and found in a fearsome form of holding her cut head in her left hand and drinking the blood springing from her body. She is shown wearing a garland of human heads and standing on Manmatha and Rati held in an embrace. Her temple is found in a Kunda about fifteen feet below the ground and can be reached through a steep and narrow flight of stairs. She is worshipped on Wednesdays.

7. Dhumavati - This temple is to the South of the Kamakhya temple. She is worshipped on Thursdays. She is found in the form of a widow, with dirty clothes and droopy eyes. She has three eyes and four hands holding weapons and a large, ugly nose.

8. Bagala Devi - Bagala Devi is the presiding deity of Mars and hence is worshipped on Tuesdays. Goats, buffalo, duck, pigeons and pumpkins are sacrificed to her.

9. Matangi - Matangi is also known as Saraswathi - She is worshipped on Sundays and during Durga Puja. She is found next to Maa Kamakhya in the form of a stone within the main Garbagriha.

10. Kamala - Kamala is worshipped on Mondays as she is the deity for Chandra (Moon). She does not have a seperate Pitha and is worshipped in the form of a stone next to Maa Kamakhya.

Visiting Kamakhya:

Despite Kamakhya being such a powerful, must visit temple, visiting it is not simple and easy. There are three types of Darshan queues - Free, Rs.501 and VIP. The queue for free darshan starts at around 3 am while the temple opens at 8 for darshan. Between 6 and 8 only the priests are allowed inside the temple. As soon as the temple opens, the first 200 people in the free queue are allowed darshan after which the other queues move. The 501 rupee ticket should ideally be available online. There are two slots 7.30 - 11.30 and then from 2 - 3.30 pm. The tickets can be booked for a block of a week in advance but one would find that the tickets are never available for booking. Therefore, most of the time, one has to approach a Panda (priest) for these tickets. Obviously, they charge a premium - double, triple or even four times, depending on the day of the week and crowd in the temple. The VIP queue is ideally for VIPs but one can get into that too, depending on the premium one is willing to pay.

Offerings awaiting devotees

Darshan can take anything between four to twelve hours, depending on the line and the queue on that day. This is because only a few people can enter the sanctum at a time and only when they come up the next set of people can be admitted below. Initially the queue for the 500 rupees ticket begins behind the temple. From there the queue snakes up to a waiting hall with chairs. People wearing headbands with Maa Kamakhya's name, carrying garlands of hibiscus and other offerings, wait patiently in the queue and then enter the waiting hall.

Waiting Hall (PC: Mantra Yatris)

From the waiting hall, one moves into a closed enclosure which forms the main queue that leads to the sanctum. There are three parallel queues here: The extreme left is the Rs.501 rupee queue, the middle one is the VIP queue and the extreme right one, the free queue. There are seats here to one side, so those unable to stand can sit and move in the queue. Two lines get formed here, depending on the crowd and therefore, it can be quite stuffy and a long wait here. 

Queue to main sanctum

Once the queue moves we reach the end of a corridor from where we move towards the mandap that is above the main sanctum. Here there are several idols, including the metal statue of Maa Kamakhya that is covered in flowers. People who pay for special poojas are seated here and poojas performed by the Pandas. Offerings like flowers and cloth that are taken are offered to the idol here. 

Then you brace yourselves for the final descend to witness Maa Kamakhya. It is a dark cave where one or more priests are also sitting. Therefore, one has to be quick to scoop the water from the spring and drink it and then pray to Maa Kamakhya and two of the Dasamahavidyas - namely Matangi and Kamala or Saraswati and Lakshmi in simple terms. Since the pathway to come out of the sanctum is the same as the entry, be quick, careful and safe as you make your way up. You can get flowers and a little bit of the Angavastra adorned on Maa Kamakhya during Ambubachi as prasad.

Some tips for visiting:

Panels at the temple

• Once you reach Kamakhya, do some research on the crowd for the next day and plan your visit accordingly.
• Try to identify a Panda prior to your visit so that the tickets can be arranged on your behalf. The Panda can also help to perform any pujas and give you flowers and the anga vastra prasad.
• Brace yourself for a long wait. Carry adequate water, snacks etc.
• They do not allow big bags into the temple. So keep your belongings in a small bag.
• There are shops outside to leave your slippers. These shops do not expect you to buy stuff.
• Once you get down to the main sanctum, understand it would be dark and your eyes will take a couple of minutes to adjust. By then, you will automatically be moved forward by the crowd. 
• So be alert and quick. The spring is right before the Yoni Pitha. One can easily miss if not looking for it. 
• Bend down quickly and scoop the water to drink. Some people carry small koojas (sold outside) to collect the water. 
• The Yoni Pitha is covered with cloth and flowers so nothing much is visible. 
• If you have missed drinking from the spring, then you cannot come closer to it on your return.
• Once you head back up, do not forget to collect flowers and the Angavastra cloth of the Goddess.
• Some of the Dasa Mahavidya shrines are within the temple complex and the others outside.
• There are special days for worship, as I have mentioned above.
• Some of the shrines are a test to physical fitness, so think before undertaking the visits.

Despite all the delay and difficulties, a darshan of Maa Kamakhya is a life time experience, that should not be missed.

Acknowledgements: The Mysterious History of Kamakhya by Parimal Kumar Datta, The Maa Kamakhya Devalaya, and Mr Suresh N S for use of some photographs.