Sri Manicka Swamigal aka Satti Samiyar Gnana Peetam, Enathimangalam

Sri Manicka Swamigal aka Satti Samiyar Gnana Peetam, Enathimangalam

My father-in-law had three framed photographs in his otherwise clutter-free pristine room. A picture of his father and two saints whom he had had an opportunity to meet and interact with in his younger days - Gnanananda Swami, whose tapovanam is found near Tirukoilur and Manicka Swamigal, commonly known as Satti Samiyar, whose samadhi is found in Enathimangalam, in Villupuram district.

During the early years of my marriage, my father-in-law would narrate numerous incidents about Satti Samiyar from his childhood. Manicka Swamigal had been in Sitthilingamadam at that time, where my father-in-law was undergoing education in his maternal uncle's house. No one really knew where he came from. Some say he walked all the way from Vellore. As young boys, my father-in-law and his cousins would bathe and play on the banks of the Then Pennai river flowing close by. Often, they would find Manicka Swamigal, either throwing sand upon himself in a state of ecstasy on simply sitting by the river, gazing into the horizon.

Shrine with lingam and photograph close to the entrance

As the boys approached, he would call them near and speak to them. Despite their age, he would call them Anna (Big Brother). Sometimes, they would find him floating on water. One day, my father-in-law found his body floating on the water while his head was watching it from a distance. Frightened, he ran home crying, only to be consoled by his grandmother, that the swami was demonstrating his siddhis.

Manicka Swamigal would not take any money if offered. He would take food in an earthen pot he always carried, which gave him the name of Satti (Pot) Samiyar. Sometimes he would eat, else he would just scatter the food around for birds and animals. He would only accept food from those he wanted to and not touch food offered by the others.

My mother-in-law for her part would proudly say that as a young mother, when she saw him visit our village, Sirumadurai, to which my father-in-law had moved to after he began working, she offered him some Omapodi,(Bhujiya) which was all she had at home, which he relished, making her very happy. In return he gave her a handful of sand from the street which she accepted as prasadam. She firmly believes that it was instrumental for them to build our house within the next couple of years.

Sri Manicka Swamigal aka Satti Samiyar, Enathimangalam

After hearing these incidents, I was very eager to visit his samadhi but it took me 29 years to do so. His Gnana Peetam is situated off the main Villupuram - Madapattu Road, in Enathimangalam where the Samiyar moved to from Siddhilingamadam. The villagers credit all their growth and prosperity to the saint who spent his days around the Murugan and Draupathi amman temples, lying in the open, eating when he felt like and accepting clothes only if he needed.

They say he would break the pot in which he would accept food often, and that the potter in the village would give him a new one immediately. Similarly, if he was given clothes, sometimes he would wear them, and in other occasions, he would either tear the garment into shreds or give it to someone else nearby. Those who assisted him saw remarkable changes happen in their lives, but then, he would not take help from any random person unless he wanted to.

Samadhi of Sri Manicka Swamigal aka Satti Samiyar, Enathimangalam

He attained samadhi on the 5th of September 1970. His Guru Pooja is celebrated on the Swathi Star in the Tamil month of Aavani each year when thousands throng his Gnana Peetam and annadhanam is provided to everyone.

The Gnana Peetam has a Murugan temple behind which stands the samadhi of Sri Manicka Swamigal. A lingam has been installed over his samadhi. There is another shrine where another lingam and his photograph are placed, which is close to the entrance. The Murugan shrine is larger and has a new idol of Muruga, while the torso of the older one has been installed outside. Not sure if it was vandalised at some point.

Abandoned torso of Murugan

It is interesting to note that the Kumbabhishekam of the Samadhi shrine was performed by Appa Paithiyam Swamigal, another renowned Siddhar. Do read about his life and times on Aalayam Kanden blog here.

The energy and vibration that one experiences in the samadhi shrine is immense, showing the divine presence of the saint there. The temple is opened in the morning for worship by the priest. But one can see the samadhi through the grills at any time of the day. You would be in the company of a couple of serious seekers who sit in meditation in different parts of the campus.

Inauguration of Samadhi Shrine of Shri Manicka Swamigal aka Satti Samiyar by Appa Paithiyam Swamigal

How to get here:

Enathimangalam is 15 kms from Villupuram, and 33 kms from Tirukoilur. The nearest town is Tiruvennainallur, the place where Lord Shiva claimed Sundaramurthy Nayanar as his slave and was instrumental in the latter singing hymns is his favour, starting with Piththa Pirai Soodi. To read more about this temple and the divine incident on Aalayam Kanden, click here.

Temple Timings:

The temple is opened in the morning around 8 am for worship. However, the samadhi can be viewed through the day behind closed grills.

Contact details:

95007 18233, 97515 52867

If you are passing by this part of the world, do stop by for a couple of minutes, to experience serenity and tranquility.

The rustic ambience that welcomes you

Acknowledgement: Many thanks to Shri. Kaushik Ramachandran, for helping me reconfirm many of the incidents I had heard, with documented evidence about the life and times of Sri. Manicka Swamigal aka Satti Samiyar of Enathimangalam.

Where the Lord is worshipped through a hole!

The Kodi Kodutha Nathar Temple 

Oru Kodi - is not just a number (denotes one crore in Tamil) or the prize money in a popular game show. It is also the name of a non-descript village about 7 kms from Villupuram. How did this village come to be known as Oru Kodi? and what is so special about it?

It is believed that one crore saints (oru kodi siddhars) got together to perform a mega penance and created a Shiva linga for this purpose. They installed the linga in the middle of the forest, put all their manuscripts and other invaluable treasures before him and sealed up the temple. An opening of the size of a brick stacked vertically was made in the wall through which the Lord could be worshiped.

The hole in the wall before the Nandi through which the Lord is worshipped at Oru Kodi

Several centuries passed. The place where the Siddhars congregated came to be known as Oru Kodi. Those who were destined to worship the Lord were blessed with great wealth and prosperity and the Lord came to be known as Kodi Kodutha Nathar (The God who gave crores).

As time went by, the Kings who were blessed with abundant wealth by worshipping the Lord wanted to expand and improve the temple. Shrines were added for Lord Ganesha, Dakshinamurthy, Chandikeswara and Goddess Abirami. Around the fifteenth century, the temple was opened up to include the Goddess Shrine, and provide access to worship the Lord like a normal temple.

Chandikeswara at Oru Kodi Temple

It was then that the huge amount of manuscripts were discovered within the sealed walls of the temple. The golden treasures are said to have disappeared miraculously from within the confines of the temple into the well outside of it. People say that even a few years earlier, when a stone was thrown into the well, a sound similar to that of a stone hitting metal was heard.

The well has subsequently been renovated. There is still water in the well.

The stone well supposedly containing the treasure now having been reconstructed.

The Goddess came to be known as Yedu Paditha Nayaki (the Goddess who read the manuscripts). The villagers say that the manuscripts contained very rare medical combinations and cures. No one knows what happened to them though - they might have been stolen or taken away by those who had the ability to read them.

The view of Goddess Olai Paditha Nayaki from the entrance

Even though the temple has been opened up, people prefer to worship the Lord through the opening in the wall as recommended by the Siddhars and use the entrance to worship the Goddess from outside.

Although the opening is very small that you almost have to view the Lord with one eye, it is surprising how one is able to get a very clear view of the sanctum sanctorum and the deity inside.

A view of Lord Kodi Kodutha Nathar through the opening in the wall.

To me, the vision was almost like a Mukha Lingam. I could actually see a forehead, eyes and nose on the Lingam. I moved back thinking it was my imagination. But in a few minutes, my mother-in-law said the same thing to me. It was indeed a very divine experience.

Today, the Lord who gave crores to several devotees is in a very pitiable environment. The shrines are all cracking up and Mr Singaram,who is the committed caretaker of the temple, is patching them up with concrete or constructing new ones as and when a stray visitor comes along and donates some money.

Lord Ganesha has been moved from the beautiful shrine on the right to the concrete
shrine on the left 

Lord Ganesha has been moved from his beautiful habitat into a concrete shrine that has been constructed recently while Lord Dhakshinamurthy's shrine has been patched up.

Lord Dhakshinamurthy at Oru Kodi

The area inside the temple is quite pathetic. Reeking of bat excreta and dampness due to minimal use, the walls are stripped of cover. The wall along the Goddess's shrine has been recently plastered.

The interior of the temple at Oru Kodi.

Apart from these deities, there are other old icons that are strewn around the temple. Some of them are really old and similar to the ones seen at Marangiyur in the same district. The article on Marangiyur can be accessed here.

Icons at Oru Kodi

It was difficult to photograph these idols in the fading light. Clearly there were a Durga/Kotravai and an idol quite similar to the one found in Marangiyur (probably of the same period - Kalabhras?) and also an idol of that of Mhudevi or Jyeshta Devi.

Jyeshta Devi at Oru Kodi

Clearly these icons talk about the ancient nature of this temple. The temple is desperately looking for funds for its upkeep and maintenance as well as for renovation. At the moment as I had mentioned the caretaker is building/repairing in an adhoc fashion depends on the funds he receives here and there. If there is a focused initiative to renovate using the existing materials or traditional methods of construction, the temple would be restored to its lost glory and Kodi Kodutha Nathar can give Kodis to many many more devotees.

The crumbling beauty at Oru Kodi

How to get here:

On the Villupuram - Mambalapattu - Thirukoilur route (State Highway 7) , there is a village called Thogaipadi at about five kilometres from Villupuram. Take left at a board which reads Kanai. You will come to the Venkatesapuram Railway Gate. Oru Kodi is less than 2 kms from here. The Perumbakkam Perumal temple is quite close to this temple.

Google map Coordinates: 11.9267919, 79.4389612

Contact Details : Mr Singaram through Mr Karthikeyan - 94437 92233

Temple Timings : The deity can be worshipped through the day through the opening in the wall. The caretaker is also available through the day at the temple.

The crumbling temple of Oru Kodi

The Lord in the middle of the river- Reliever of all Doshams!

A view of the Nattatreeswara Temple from the banks of River Cauvery

Sage Agasthya was summoned by Lord Shiva. The Occasion - the celestial wedding of Shiva with Parvathi in Kailash, to which all Gods and Rishis were invited. Lord Shiva was concerned that the South may go down because of this unexpected movement of visitors to the North and hence requested Agasthya to maintain the balance by stationing himself down South. Agasthya was disappointed. "What have I done that I do not get to witness the celestial wedding?" he asked sadly. Lord Shiva promised him that only he could provide this balance and hence was being commissioned on the task and the Celestial wedding will be shown to him wherever he was.

Happy with this, Sage Agasthya agreed to move to South India. Lord Shiva gave him five tasks to accomplish:
1. To provide a Jeevanadhi (a perennial water source) to South India
2. To put an end to Illvalan and Vatapi, the rulers of the city of Manimathi, who were cruel to Brahmins and subjects
3. To support Rama in vanquishing Ravana
4. To create a Sangam for Tamil literature
5. To enhance medicine through the age old secrets of the Rishis

 There are two versions of how River Cauvery came into existence. The first version is that Sage Agasthya carried the water of seven holy rivers in his Kamandalu, and when he was meditating, Lord Ganesha came in the form of a crow, and toppled the Kamandalu, thus facilitating the creation of River Cauvery.

The other version is that Cauvery(Kaveri) was Vishnumaaya born as the daughter of Kavera Maharishi and Sage Agasthya took her as his second wife after Lopamudra, the daughter of the Vidharbha King. Vishnumaaya agreed to marry Agasthya with the condition that she would run as a perennial river in order to help her father attain Moksha. Agasthya agreed to the condition and took her in his Kamandalu and the rest is as above.

Once River Cauvery came into existence, Sage Agasthya proceeded with the killing of Illvalan and Vatapi. They were the sons of Sage Durvasa and Ajamukhi, the sister of Shurapadma. In order to rid himself from the Brahmahathi Dosha, Sage Agasthya created a lingam right in the middle of the river Cauvery with sand and started meditating before the same. Since this Ishwara was in the middle of the river (நடு + ஆறு ) he came to be known as "Nattatreeswara".(நட்டாற்றீஸ்வரர் )

Sri Nattatreeswara - the sand lingam installed by Sage Agasthya

It was the first day in the Tamil month of Chithirai (April 14th usually) when Sage Agasthya came out of meditation, having been rid of Brahma Hathi Dosha. When he tried to dissolve the lingam made of sand, he found that it had hardened and he was unable to move it from where he had installed it. At this point, he heard Lord Shiva instruct him to leave the Lingam where it was, for the Lord had decided to stay there in the middle of the river, to rid all those who worshipped him on the first day of Chithirai from all the Doshas that they have been afflicted with.

Sage Agasthya happily left the Lingam where it was. Since it had been installed on a small hillock in the middle of the river, all that he could offer to the Lord was porridge made of Bajra and yoghurt. (கம்பங்கூழ் ). Till date, this ritual is being followed. Mr Gandhi, the Secretary of the temple trust, tells us that on the first day of Chithirai, a minimum of one lakh people gather at the Nattatreeswarar Temple for worshipping the Lord and relieving themselves of all doshas. He says they grind around 15 bags of Bajra brought all the way from Tiruvannamalai and prepare about 150 drums of porridge. This is then mixed with 5000 litres of curd brought specially for this purpose from Erode and offered as prasadam to all the devotees who visit on the first day of Chithirai.

How does one reach the temple?

The Coracles waiting to take visitors to the Nattatreeswara Temple

During the months when the river is in full flow, the only means of reaching the temple is by coracles (பரிசல் ). The boatman charges Rs.10 per person for two way transportation. But during the month of April, the flow of water is reduced, the dam is closed and people can either walk across the river or drive down.

Mr. Gandhi, further mentioned that efforts are on to construct a bridge at a cost of Rs. 2.25 crores across the river to the temple, with the support of the Electricity Department and approvals from Water Resource Organisation. He narrated how they were able to establish that the temple was exactly in the middle of the river not just length wise but also breadthwise. The river is 760 kms long out of which this temple is located at 380 kms from either side thereby making it the exact central location.

Not just this, there are several other interesting features in the temple.

Sthala Vriksham : The sthala vriksham at this temple is the Athi Maram (Fig Tree). It is indeed a wonder how this tree grows on a rock in the hillock. It is also equally amazing that no new branches have sprouted in this tree for several decades. There is a Ganesha installed under the Sthala Vriksham facing the Cauvery, and is called "Kaveri Kanda Vinayagar".

Sthala Vriksham at Sri Nattatreeswara Temple, Erode

Walking Muruga: 

Lord Muruga is found here in a walking posture with a parrot in his hand. It is believed that when Lord Agasthya came here to worship Lord Shiva, Lord Muruga went forward to receive him and hence is found in this posture. The Parrot in Muruga's hand is believed to be Saint Arunagirinathar.

Lord Muruga in a walking posture with parrot in hand

See the right foot being ahead of the left!

Goddess Nallanayaki: 

The Goddess is known as Nallanayaki and is found in a seperate shrine. Adi Pooram is celebrated in her shrine with great festivity when 108 Sankabishekam is performed.

Clean Cauvery Yatra:

Mr. Gandhi further mentioned that about 350 ascetics from different mutts have been proceeding on an annual Clean Cauvery Yatra for three years now, with a mission to spread awareness about cleaning the river Cauvery. They start their yatra from Talacauvery and go up to Kaveripoompattinam, visiting and worshipping at various shrines along the way. They perform special prayers and poojas at the Nattatreeswara Temple, as it makes up the midpoint.

With Mr Gandhi, the Secretary of the Temple Trust, and other officials of the temple.
To my right is Ms Kasturi Prakash,, a close friend and our hostess for the trip

How to get here:

Nearest Railway Station: Erode

By Road: From Erode, proceed towards the Kodumudi - Karur Road. After about 13 kms, you will reach Chavadipalayam Pudur. At the four road junction there, proceed east for about 2 kms to reach the banks of the Cauvery from where you have to take the coracle to the temple. There is a board at Chavadipalayam pudur junction.

Temple Timings:

6.30 am - 12.30 pm
3.30 pm - 6 pm
On the first day of Chithirai, the temple is open through the day.

Contact Details:
Mr. Gandhi, Secretary - 98420 22017

A view of the River Cauvery from the Nattatreeswara Temple

Save the Temple!

This is not the first time that after visiting a temple I have wanted to write about it, but due to some reason or the other, the article is delayed, and suddenly out of the blue, the time comes true for it to be written.

I had visited the Thachanallur Siva Temple a few months ago, along with REACH PRO Mr.J Chandrasekaran. Thanks to Podhigai Kudumban, who took us directly from the railway station in the pouring rain, to this temple. On the way, he briefed us that a portion of the temple was going to be demolished for road widening work undertaken by the Public Works Department.

The Thachanallur Siva Temple is one of the ancient temples in Tirunelveli town. This was the area where the sculptors involved in the construction of the Nellaiyappar temple stayed. They had made a replica of the Swayambu Nellaiyappar for their worship.

Saint Thavamaninathar:

Thavamaninathar, or Thavamani Siddhar as he was popularly known, was an ardent devotee of Lord Shiva who spent many a year in Shenbaga Devi falls in Courtallam, in worship and meditation. He set out towards Thirunelveli, to get a darshan of Nellaiyappar. On his way to the main temple, he rested for a while at the Shalivadiswarar Temple at Thachanallur. It was here that he got a divine vision of Nellaiyappar. Before he could go to meet the Lord, the Lord was eager to meet his devotee and gave him his divine darshan at Thachanallur itself.

Bronze Idol of Thavamani nathar at the Temple

From then on, Thavamani Nathar stayed at the Shalivadiswarar Temple at Thachanallur and worshipped the Lord here. He had two disciplines, Vedamoorthy and Mandhiramoorthy, who assisted him in his worship. They also spent several years here in the worship of Lord Shiva.

Thavamaninathar on a pillar outside the Gandhimathi Ambal Shrine

The Lord is called Shalivadiswarar (This is the Sanskrit equivalent of Nellaiyappar). The Goddess Gandhimathi is in a seperate shrine with a divine smile on her face, waiting all alone, for any devotee who might find time to visit her.

Vedamoorthy Swamigal and Mandhiramoorthy Swamigal Temple:

There is a seperate temple for the two devotees of Thavamani nathar, namely, Vedamoorthy and Mandiramoorthy within the temple complex. It is this structure that is now under threat of demolition for road widening work of the Public Works Department.

The Sanctum Sanctorum has two Vinayakas side by side and is said to be the Athistanam of Sri Vedamoorthy Swamigal. There is a Kettle (Gendi) to one side of the Sanctum Sanctorum which is said to be the Aikiyam of Sri Mandiramoorthy Swamigal.

Sri Mandhiramoorthy Swamigal Aikiyam

The heriditary trustee of the Vedamoorthy, Mandhiramoorthy temple is Sri Namaschivayam. He showed us the works of these two saints as well as the copper plate that has been part of the temple for many years.

Shri Chandrasekaran holding up the copper plate

A portion of the front mandapa of this temple containing beautifully sculptured pillars of the Pandya times is what is expected to be lost during the road widening work.

Hereditary Trustee of the temple Shri Namaschivayam

Mr. Namaschivayam, despite being physically challenged, has been actively meeting different people and appealing for finding an alternate route or a compromise through which the road would be widened without touching portions of this heritage structure. Through the efforts of REACH foundation, Times of India also carried an article on this subject.

A beautiful Vahana made of wood but coated with Copper at the temple

 I hope many of you would remember a similar issue with the Panayapuram Puravarpanangateesar temple, which has recently got resolved, with the Highways Department finding an alternative route. We sincerely hope, this temple, which has housed many divine saints who have seen the vision of God here, will also be saved.

How to get here:

Thachanallur is two kms away from the Tirunelveli Junction. Several buses and autos are available at the Junction.

Temple Timings:

Morning - 7 am to 10 am
Evening - 5.30 pm to 8 pm

Contact Details:
Priest - Shri Harihara Sarma - 94420 61598
Hereditary Trustee - Shri Namaschivayam - 94435 01215

An Electrifying Experience at Agni Theertham!

Agni Theertham

When I wrote about Vanniyappar Temple in Aalayam Kanden a couple of weeks ago, I had mentioned I would be writing a separate post on Agni Theertham, the original place where Agneeswara who is today called Vanniyappar had existed.

Agni Theertham, is on the banks of the Patha river. During Dwapara Yuga, the Saptharishis were performing a Yagna to protect people from being killed by the Pralaya. Fearing his power would be lost, Agni did not help the burning of the sacrificial fire. Angered by this, the Rishis cursed Agni to lose his heat, light and energy. Agni was shocked and wanted to escape from the Sapa Hathi. So he took the form of a fish and hid in the Herambayar Theertham near the Patha River.

Since Agni went missing, the Saptharishis asked his three elder brothers to take the Havi (offering) of the Yagna to Lord Shiva. The three brothers, not having the strength to carry the Havi, perished. In the meantime, the Sapa Hathi came looking for Agni, found him hiding in the Herambayar Theertham, and caught him.

Agni lost his heat, light and energy. When Sage Sudama came to the Theertham for a holy bath, Agni knelt at his feet and asked for a way out of his misery. The Sage asked him to install a Shiva Linga there and worship him to be rid of his curse. Agni did as advised and soon regained his strength and vigor through the grace of the Lord. He also helped the Saptharishis complete the Yagna by carrying the Havi all by himself. Since Agni installed the Shiva Linga here, the place came to be known as Agni Theertham.

The idol of Sri Agneeswara was worshipped by several saints and Siddhars over time. The water of the Patha river flowed around Agneeswara bathing and worshipping him. Over time, Agneeswara was removed from there by Sri Vijayendra Bhupathy Mudaliar who placed it in a grove of Vanni Trees (Shami) and built a small temple around it. Once he was placed in a Vanni grove, he came to be known as Vanneeswara.

When we reached the Agni Theertham it was around 5.30 pm. The entrance to the pond was neatly painted and the birthdays of the eighteen Siddhars was inscribed in one of the walls. Mr Sivakumar who is the caretaker of the place welcomed us warmly and took us down the steps into the Theertham.

The Multi-pillared Mandapa around the pond was clean and well maintained. Mr. Sivakumar, pointed out the panel on one wall depicting a Shiva Lingam and Sage Agasthya performing Abhishekam beneath which the spring of water came in and filled the pond.

 On one side of the Mantapa was the Athistanam of a Siddhar who had attained Samadhi there. While his details are not known, the Lingam over the Athistanam is called Theerthapaleeswara. The Dhandam of the Siddhar is also worshipped here to date.

The vibration when you get down into the Agni Theertham is electric. The setting sun, the gentle sound of the water pouring into the pond from an unknown source, the vibrance of Sri Theerthapaleeswara all added to the divine experience. I could feel goosebumps raising in my arms as I sank down on the floor to take in the complete experience of the environment. It was indeed an extremely special place. After meditating there for some time, we went across to the Sri Balasubramania Temple. The pillars in this temple have images of several Siddhars as well as Arjuna doing penance. The main deity Balasubramania Swamy stands alone, looking majestic in his simple Alankara.

When I told Mr Sivakumar that this place was so soothing and divine, he shared the experience of the Uzhavara Kuzhu in restoring this temple from its previous dilapidated state.

With the main diety being moved to the Vanniappar Temple, the Agni theertham  lost its glory. Several Siddhars had spent years in meditation at the Agni Theertham thereby enhancing the vibration. The Balasubramania Temple next to the Theertham was a shelter for the Sages and Yogis who stayed in the Mandapa and worshipped at the Agni Theertham. But this too lost its glory and very soon it became dilapidated and deserted.

Mr. Sivakumar, promised to send me pictures of how the place was when the Uzhavara Pani Kuzhu had started the restoration work and how they had worked relentlessly with the help of the villagers of Azhwarkurichi to raise the temple to what it was now.  As promised the pictures reached me in two weeks time in a CD.  I had tears in my eyes when I started looking at the pictures.

From this dilapidated condition, the temple has been raised to what it is now.The Uzhavara Pani Kuzhu of Alwarkurichi and the villagers have worked relentlessly with a commitment to bring thetemple back to its lost glory.

The Kumbabhishekham of the temple was completed in the year 2010. Every year on the Makam Star in the  tamil month of Maasi (Maasi Makam) 10,008 lamps are lit around the Agni Theertham. On every full moon day lamps are lit and the Siddhars are worshipped.

This temple is one among the Dakshina Pancha Krosa Kshetrams. Since this theertham flows from the North, it helps to remove one's sins and help him attain Mukthi. The Theerthapaleeswarar in Agni Theertham has been worshipped by Vidhyadharas, Gandharvas, Siddhars, especially Agasthya and Athiri Maharishi as well as Naga Kanyas. Residing one day in Agni Theertham is said to relieve one of the worst of sins as well as Pithru Sapam and fear of death. 

According to the Tamiraparani Mahatmiyam, worshipping here on Solar and Lunar Eclipse days as well as Tamil New Year, New Moon and Full moon days and Ashtami will help one see the vision of the Lord in the form of Light. It will also help them gain all kinds of wealth.

How to get here:

Alwarkurichi is very close to Ambasamudram. It is about 35 kms from Tirunelveli and 25 kms from Tenkasi. Buses plying from Tirunelveli to Tenkasi stop at Alwarkurichi. Nearest Railway station is Tirunelveli. The Agni Theertham is a stone's throw away from the Vanniyappar Temple.

Temple Timings:

The priest at Balasubramania Swamy Temple is available from 6.30 to 9.00 am in the morning and 4.00 to 7.30 pm in the evening. His contact number is 97501 52566.

The Agni Theertham however is open throughout the day. Contact person Mr. Sivakumar 93606 69929.

The Agni Theertham is definitely a must visit place if you happen to be passing by this area. Visit the Theerthapaleeswara worshipped by the Siddhars and the Siddhanathan - Sri Balasubramania Swamy here.

A Garbarakshambigai in Tirunelveli District!

The Gopuram of Vanneeswarar Temple, Alwarkurichi

There are planned travels you undertake, when you read up about the places you intend to visit, their significance, uniqueness and everything else that would make your visit complete and wholesome. Sometimes, unplanned travel has a number of hidden surprises for you which become much-cherished and treasured memories.

My recent visit to Tirunelveli District was one such trip. When Mr. Chandrasekhar, PRO of REACH Foundation, told me that he was going to Tirunelveli District for survey of a couple of dilapidated temples, and invited me to go along, I agreed enthusiastically. Our guide, Chandra mentioned, would be one Mr. Podhigai Kudumban who has done extensive research by foot all over the district on sixteen different themes pertaining to history, heritage and mythology. The name was itself very unique and intriguing so I was all excited.

When our train chugged into the junction, it started pouring heavily and by the time we decided on a route map, went up to another temple about which I would be writing shortly, and boarded the bus to Cheranmadevi, it was noon. We were tired and hungry. It was at the Cheranmadevi bus stand, that Podhigai hired his friend's share auto for the rest of the day for us.

Sometimes, it is these small time transport operators in these towns and villages, who turn out to be a godsend. Mr. Ramar, who belongs to Mukkudal and drives the auto drove us from Cheranmadevi to Kallidaikurichi where we were kindly hosted by a common friend's Chandru's family, and then from there to Ambasamudram, Azhwarkurichi and back.

Another view of the gopuram and the walls ready to fall

The auto was spacious and comfortable and he only charged us Rs.1000/- for the whole day. He was extremely patient as we went from one temple to another, never got annoyed when we stopped at every single " Nadukal" or mural painting in an abandoned mandapa, or spent hours taking pictures.

I would strongly recommend Mr. Ramar for anyone who is planning to travel around these places. He charges Rs.1000 - 1200 per day, depending on the time and distance which is much cheaper than the ambassadors who charge Rs.2000 per day. The most important thing is that he knows temples that exist in hidden corners of towns and villages around here. Contact Details of Mr. Ramar : 99449 20014

When we started out in the morning, Chandra had explained our interests to Podhigai, who in turn insisted that I visit and write about Vanneeswarar Temple at Azhwarkurichi wherein resides Garbarakshambigai.

I was surprised. I had visited other temples connected with marriage and childbirth in other parts of Tamilnadu like Putlur Poongavanathamman Temple, Thirukarugavur Garbarakshambigai Temple, Pidaari Karukathamman Temple, Mamallapuram, Karuvalarcheri etc. but somehow not come across or heard about this temple, despite belonging to the district.

Podhigai showed me pictures on his digital camera, of idols on the main gopuram of women helping another woman to deliver, various yoga postures for pregnant women etc. that I was super excited by the time we reached there.

It was almost 5.30 pm when we reached the temple. The temple was stooped in darkness like all other parts of Tirunelveli which experiences ten hours of power cut in a day. The battery on my camera was dying down because of all the action since morning and not being able to recharge the battery. As soon as we reached, I asked the junior bhattar at the temple, Mr. Meenakshinathan, if I could see the idols on the gopuram. He agreed and took me up. This was the first time in my life that I got an opportunity to climb up a temple and that too, one where the stones were shaky and ready to crumble.

I was surprised to hear that Meenakshinathan is also a snake catcher. He showed us pictures of how he had caught sixteen feet King cobras and other snakes around Azhwarkurichi. It was indeed amazing to take a look at those pictures.

View from the top

When we went around trying to locate the idols, Meenakshinathan remarked that every other day the idols were disintegrating and falling from the gopuram and the ones that had been captured by Podhigai some months ago, did not exist any longer! It was highly disappointing and quite saddening to see the state of affairs.

The temple is quite well maintained inside, and they are looking for patrons and donors to renovate the gopurams and the wall around the temple, which again is leaning and ready to crumble at any moment.

Inside, the temple is a treasure trove. Every single pillar has sculptures depicting an image connected to childbirth. There are quite a few erotic sculptures as well.

The Bhattar at the temple, Shri Narayanan welcomed us and started narrating the history of the temple, in the dim light provided by the inverter.

The story goes like this:

During Dwapara Yuga, the Saptharishis performed a Yagna to prevent human beings from perishing in the fire. Fearing his power would be lost, Agni did not help the burning of the sacrificial fire. Angered by his act, the Saptharishis cursed him to lose his skills and competencies.

Agni hid himself in the banks of the river near the temple in the form of a fish to escape from the curse. But the Sapahathi came looking for him, found him and overcame him. Agni then prayed to Rishi Sudama to help him to get back his skills. The Rishi adviced him to install a Shivalinga with his own hands and worship him and be relieved from the curse. Agni did so on the banks of the river and was soon relieved of his curse.
The place where this lingam was installed came to be known as Agni Theertham. There is a perennial spring of water that keeps coming into the pit where the Agniswara Lingam existed and several Siddhars have meditated and attained samadhi around it. A separate post on Agni Theertham can be found here on Aalayam Kanden.

Lord Agniswara

Over time, since the river got flooded frequently, a wealthy trader, Shri.Vijayendra Bhupathy Mudaliar had moved the Lingam from the Agni Theertham into a grove of Vanni Trees (Prosopis Cineraria or Shami Tree ) and built a small shrine around it. Because he rested in the midst of Vanni Trees he came to be known as Vanniappar.

Subsequently, the Cholas had built the temple and extended it. When the Pandyas came into power, they moved the original Agniswara to the East of the temple as a Easanya Lingam, and built a larger Shivalingam in the Sanctum Sanctorum. They also added the shrine of Goddess Sivakami Ambal. The Nandi in front of the new Pandya Lingam, is however, the old Chola Nandi.

The original Nandi

This original Vanneeswara now called Agniswara again, sits quietly, in the eastern side of the temple, waiting for devotees to visit him. Try meditating in front of him. The vibration is awesome! The new Nandi made by the Pandyas has been installed near the Dwajasthamba and Bali Peetam, by far one of the most beautiful Nandis I have seen so far.

The New Nandi

Unique methods of worship at the temple:

As I had mentioned earlier, this temple is a reputed worship site for marriage and childbirth. There is a pillar in the temple which has the images of a goddess in bridal attire named Kalyanambal and another goddess fully pregnant named Garbarakshambigai.

Goddess Kalyanambal

Devotees worship Goddess Kalyanambal to have prayers of good marriage proposal answered. The procedure is very simple but effective.

The person seeking to be married or a blood relative (preferably mother) has to perform abhishekam with their own hands to Goddess Kalyanambal in the first week. Archanai is performed in the following three weeks by the Bhattar on behalf of the prospective groom or bride. Once the wedding takes place, the couple come back and offer garlands and new clothes to Kalyanambal as you can see in the picture above. He said that several people come to do this pooja. Abhishekam can be performed at any time of the day other than Rahu Kaalam.

For those who seek childbirth, the same procedure is done but with Garbarakshambigai. The opportunity to perform abhishekam with their own hands is something unique at this temple. After childbirth, the couple come back with the infant to offer prayers and thanks to Goddess Garbarakshambigai.

Goddess Garbarakshambigai

This temple is also a place of worship for Kalasarpa Dosham. On the ceiling outside the Artha Mandapam, there is a Yantra of entwined snakes, and snake charmers which is unique in this temple.

Those who suffer from Rahu Dosham, perform abhishekam (again with their own hands) to the Krishna standing on a five headed snake and those suffering from Kethu Dosham can perform abhishekam to the Shiva lingam under a one-headed snake and those suffering from Kalasarpa Dosham or Kalasarpa Yogam perform abhishekam to Rahu and Kethu in a single icon to be rid of these dosham. Point to note: Other than the Yantra and these icons, there is no Navagraham in this temple.

Kalasarpa Yantram

By now, the battery on my camera had run out and I was reduced to shooting from my mobile phone, aiming into the darkness. Kindly bear with the poor and grainy quality of pictures here forward.

The other interesting features here are as I mentioned several sculptures of yogic postures depicted for pregnant women.

                                                                      

Another absolutely adorable feature of this temple is the unique depiction of the 63 nayanmars. Instead of the standard format where all of them have similar faces, and stand with folded hands, here each one of them is depicted to show incidents that happened in their lives that made them Nayanmars.

Siruthonda Nayanar with his son Seeralan at his foot

Pugazhchola Nayanar with the head of the
Sivanadiyar in his hand

The entire history of each Nayanmar's life is written in the wall behind them for easy reference and understanding which again is something interesting and useful. Also the nayanmars are not arranged based on the order they appear in Thiruthonda Thogai. They are organised based on common threads in them. For example, Ninraseer Nedumaran, Mangayarkarasiyaar and Kulasiraiyaar are together, Sundarar, his parents and Narasinga Munaiyaraiyar are together and so on.

Both Narayana Bhattar and Meenakshinathan spoke about the exquisite large Nataraja made of a single stone, by far one of the earliest stone Natarajas which belonged to this temple, but has now been moved to another temple nearby for safe-keeping since the walls of this temple can collapse at any time. We could not see the exquisite Nataraja because the other temple was closed.

Vanniyappar and Sivakami Ambal wait with compassion and grace to answer prayers of those who come to their doorsteps.

How to get here:

Nearest Railway Station: Tirunelveli
By Road: Alwarkurichi is very close to Ambasamudram and about 35 kms from Tirunelveli and 25 kms from Tenkasi. Buses going from Tirunelveli to Tenkasi via Ambasamudram stop at Alwarkurichi.

Temple Timings:

To facilitate those devotees coming from different parts of Tamilnadu and Kerala by various means of transport, the temple is open from 7 am in the morning till 7 pm at night. It is better to visit the temple during the day because electricity is not available in the evenings and it is a little difficult to enjoy the beautiful treasures of the temple in the dark.

Contact Details:

Narayana Bhattar: 97904 01895
Meenakshinathan  96599 66003
For general guidance regarding travel and heritage research (especially early types of nature worship, Nadukals, Kaval Deivams, Astromical signs in Temple Architecture etc) you could contact Podhigai Kudumban Mobile No 96981 76089. A word of Caution - he is a very intense and passionate researcher and often loses track of time, hunger and other logistical needs that normal travellers would experience :)