Thursday, December 16, 2021

Aavarani Pudhuchery Nateswarar

Shri Nateswara Swamy Temple, Aavarani Pudhuchery

Some temples are unique and the joy one gets while visiting them is immense. The purpose of Aalayam Kanden is to identify these lesser known gems and to highlight them so that those in search of such temples can visit and experience them easily.

A couple of years ago, I had written an article on the Aavarani Ananthanarayana Perumal temple in Nagapattinam district, where the gigantic 21 feet Perumal is bedecked with beautiful jewels rendered through the hymns of  Thirumangai Azhwar. The link to the article is here. Just on the outskirts of Aavarani is a hamlet called Pudhuchery (not to be confused with Pondicherry). It is here that the unique Swayambu Nateswara Swamy temple is found.

So what is so unique about this temple? To know it, we need to go into its legend.

Sage Vashista and Devathachan

Lord Ganesha at the Aavarani Pudhuchery Temple

On the banks of River Pasumpuli, lived a young boy called Devathachan. Right from childhood, he was very fond of Lord Shiva and would bathe in the river, and collect water while singing hymns in praise of the Lord. He also made a Shivalingam out of sand and started performing abhishekam with milk every day. Over time,this sand lingam tightened up and formed like an anthill.  

One night, the river was in spate. As the water levels rose, Sage Vashista who was on a pilgrimage and had set up his temporary shelter near the river, was worried that the rising water would soon dissolve the lingam so passionately worshipped by young Devathachan and therefore somehow wanted to save it. So he embraced it, attempting to shield it with his body. In the meantime, Devathachan was restless in his house. He was worried about his lingam and if he would be able to save the Lord from being dissolved in the rain. He begged his widowed mother, to allow him to go and check. However, the mother was worried about sending her young son out alone in the dark, particularly when it was raining heavily and the river was in spate. She pleaded with him to hold on till dawn. The boy wept bitterly, unable to disobey his mother and at the same time worried about the status of his loving Lord.

At the crack of dawn, the rains stopped and the river started flowing as if nothing had happened. The boy ran towards the river and found Sage Vashista in an embrace with the linga. The little boy ran towards the rishi and fell at his feet in gratitude for having saved his Lord. The Rishi opened his eyes to look at what he was holding.

To both their surprise and astonishment, the baanam (top portion of the lingam) now looked like the Shiva Kayilai and Sakthi Kayilai as it appears to those who perform the inner parikrama of Mount Kailash. It was as if Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati had appeared as the divine couple from the waters of the river to answer the prayers of their young devotee. The Sage was over joyed with the grace of the Lord and so were the villagers who had then all gathered by the river. They built a small shrine at where the Lord had chosen to stay and it came to be called "Puthira chery", the place where God had appeared for the young boy (Puthiran).

The Shivakayilai Shakthikayilai Swayambu lingam at Aavarani Pudhuchery

Over time, the name has morphed into Pudhuchery and since found on the outskirts of Aavarani, it has come to be known as Aavarani Pudhuchery. The Pasumpuli river that surrounded the lingam built by Devathachan to change it into the Shivakayilai and Shakthikayilai has shrunk into a tank known as the "Puthrakaameshti Theertham". Those seeking noble children bathe in this tank (which currently needs renovation and repairs) and worship Nateswara Swamy on Thiruvathirai day. Worshipping the deity continuously for 64 days is recommended for those having problems with conceiving naturally. The temple is commonly known as Shivakayilai Shakthikayilai. No one really knows why and how the deity came to be called Nateswarar.

Goddess Akilandeswari at Aavarani Pudhuchery

Goddess Akilandeswari is a later addition to the temple. A seperate shrine seems to have been built for her in the 14th century. Unique Chola bronzes belonging to this temple are in safe custody. The sthala puranam says the deities were worshipped by Kali and A Kali bronze has been unearthed a few years ago, while making some civil alterations in the temple. Several people throng here to worship her for Rahu Dasa Pariharam on New Moon days (Amavasai) when she is taken out on procession around the temple in a small chapparam. There is a seperate shrine for Shanaichara, facing East.

Goddess Kali at the Aavarani Pudhuchery Temple

How to reach here: The temple is close to Sikkal on the Nagapattinam - Thiruvarur Route. GPS coordinates (10.73420144,79.77142729)

Temple Timings: 8 - 11.30, 5 - 8 pm

Contact: S Kalidasa Gurukkal - 97865 82492



Saturday, December 11, 2021

Adi Annamalai - where Tiruvempavai was born!

 

The Adi Annamalai Temple in Tiruvannamalai

Come Margazhi - Tamil Households, temples and sabhas come alive to the hymns of Thirupaavai and Thiruvempavai, songs that sing the glory of Lord Vishnu and Lord Shiva respectively. While the former was rendered by Andal, the latter is to the credit of Saint Manickavasagar, one among the quartet of Shaiva saints who sang hymns in praise of Lord Shiva. 

Thirupaavai and Thiruvempaavai have a couple of similarities - the singer along with female friends is observing the "Paavai Nonbu", a ritual followed by unmarried girls during the month of Margazhi in order to obtain virtuous husbands. Manickavasagar is believed to have taken the "Nayaki Bhavam" to render the Thiruvempaavai.

Saint Manickavasagar

Born in Thiruvadhavur in the 9th Century, as Vadhavooraar, Manickavasagar was minister to King Arimarthana Pandian (Varagunavarman II). The king entrusted him with a large amount of money to buy horses for the army. When the Minister set out on his task, he was met with by Lord Shiva in Thiruperunthurai (Avudaryarkoil) and upon receiving enlightenment, spent all the money on renovating the temple. When the king asked Vadhavoraar to present the horses, he did not know what to do and sought the help of  Lord Shiva who played a divine drama (Thiruvilaiyaadal) and converted all the foxes around Madurai into horses and sent them to the King's stables. At dawn, the foxes turned into their original selves and ran away.

(Photo Courtesy: Adbh266 - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0)

On hearing this, the king imprisoned Vaadhavooraar. In jail, he rendered several hymns that would melt even the heartless, in praise of the Lord. Finally, the Lord made the King realise the truth. Freed from prison, Vadhavoorar who had received the title Manickavasagar from the Lord himself, for each of his verses was like a precious gem,set out on a pilgrimage, visiting several shrines, before coming to Adi Annamalai in Tiruvannamalai.

Adi Annamalai is known by other names such as Aadhi Annamalai (as sung by Arunagirinathar in his Thirupugazh - Aadhi Arunachalam Amarndha Perumaane and Ani Annamalai, a jewel decorating the foothills of Annamalai. The deity here is believed to have been installed by Lord Brahma. 

Lord Brahma and Adi Annamalai

Brahma and Thilothama
When Brahma created Thilothama, a celestial being, with the finest particles of heaven, earth and the underworld (another version says Brahma asked Vishwakarma to create her) he was smitten by her beauty. Faces evolved in all directions of his head just to see her, as she circumambulated him after being created. Overcome by lust, Brahma asked Thilothama to be his. However, she was shocked, as by virtue of creating her, he was her father. She started running away in fear. With Maya shrouding his intellect, Brahma took the form of a male deer and started following her. 

When she could run no longer, Tilothama took the form a female pigeon and started flying towards Thiruvannamalai, where the Lord had risen in the form of a pillar of light when Brahma and Vishnu were unable to find his feet and tresses. Brahma also took the form of a male pigeon and tried to catch up with her. On Tilothama entering the holy land of Thiruvannamalai, that provides mukthi to those who merely think of it, Lord Shiva took the form of a hunter, and shot down the male pigeon . Brahma was brought out of Maya as soon as his body touched the holy ground. He realised with shame, the foolishness and impropriety of his behaviour and was very repentent. He sought the forgiveness of Thilothama. In order to atone his sins, he installed a Shivalingam on the foothills of Annamalai, to the West of the main shrine, at the spot where he had been relieved of Maya. He created a Brahma theertham next to it and a tank known even today as Ayyankulam (Ayan is another name of Brahma).

Brahma Theertham, now known as Manickavasagar Theertham

It was on the banks of the Ayyankulam that Ramana Maharishi reached on arriving at Thiruvannamalai. He bathed in its holy waters and when he stepped out, he knew his calling. It was the time to renounce all that he had. He threw away the food he had carried from home, and discarded his clothes, but for a piece of dhoti to be worn as a loin-cloth. On seeing this, a barber asked if he wanted his head to e tonsured . He gave up his hair and was ready for his sadhana. A shrine for Arunagirinathar is also found on the banks of this tank.

Ayyankulam Tank

On arriving at Adi Annamalai, Manickavasagar set himself up a few metres from the temple, bathed in the Brahma Theertham which came to be known as the Manickavasagar Theertham and worshipped the Kuzhumani Vinayakar and the Lord every day. The 8th Century Thirupaavai has thirty hymns of Andal calling out her friends to wake up, bathe, observe the paavai nombu and serve/worship the Lord.

Kuzhumani Vinayakar worshipped by Saint Manickavasagar

Manickavasagar, sang twenty songs grouped together as the Thiruvempaavai, in the month of Margazhi urging the young girls to bathe in the Brahma Theertham and serve the Lord of Adi Annamalai. This along with the ten songs of Thirupalliezhuchi make up the Thiruvempaavai. All verses end with the word "Empaavaai", giving it its name. Pleased with his devotion, Lord Shiva appeared before Manickavasagar. The Manickavasagar Matam (Mutt) stands at the place where this happened. 

Manickavasagar Mutt (Photo Courtesy: arunachala-live.com)

This Margazhi, let us attempt to read and enjoy the essence of Thirupaavai and Thiruvempaavai.






Sunday, April 4, 2021

Aditya Mahadevar Temple, Anaikattaputhur

Aditya Mahadevar Temple, Anaikattaputhur

Anaikattaputhur is a non-descript village in Vellore district of Tamil Nadu. Referred to as Anai Akkarai Puthur in inscriptions, the village is found along the banks of the Cooum river. 

Sthalapuranam: Today the temple has very little antiquarian remains. However, the Sthalapuranam states that the Lingam was installed by Sage Bhrigu, and worshipped by Sage Sukracharya and Goddess Lakshmi.

Historical Evidences : The Shiva temple now known as Ekambareswarar temple is significant from the epigraphical evidences around it. The sole inscription that has been documented in this temple is from the ninth regnal year of  Parthivendrathi Varman, (ARE 288/1895)

Who was Parthivendra Varman as mentioned in inscriptions?

There is still lack of consensus among historians about Parthivendra Varman's identity. He has been mentioned as Parthivendrathi Varman and Parthivendra Panmar too in inscriptions. Scholars like Shri. Neelakanta Sastry are of the opinion that it was the title taken by Aditya Karikala, the son of Parantaka II (Sundara Chola) and older brother of Rajaraja I on his being appointed as Crown prince and Co-regent because of the words "Virapandyan Thalai Konda" that appear in the inscriptions of Parthivendra Varman, as Aditya Karikala had been the one who took the head of Virapandya in the battle at Sevur (estimated to have been in 963 CE).

However, there are others who disagree with this view point and are of the opinion that Parthivendra Varman could have been a feudatory of the Cholas, managing affairs at Jayamkondacholamandalam (Thondaimandalam during Chola rule) and might have added the title to his name, after having assisting Aditya Karikala while he took the head of Vira Pandya. The historians further refer to the Thiruvalangadu Copper plates and the Udayarkudi inscription which mention Aditya Karikala as Karikala Chola and not Parthivendra Varman. While Aditya Karikala was indeed the co-regent with his father, it was only for a period of six years before he was killed and therefore they conclude that inscriptions which state  "Virapandyan Thalai Konda Ko Parakesari" which could be inscriptions during Aditya Karikala's period and if the inscription mentions "Virapandyan Thalai Konda Parthivendra Panmarku" it could mean Parthivendra the feudatory, whose inscriptions are available even after the death of Aditya Karikala (estimated as 969 CE) .A third hypothesis is that Parthivendra Varman could have been Rajaraja. This at the moment is an evolving theory put forth by a historian.

In the Cooum circuit, there are three temples which are believed to have been constructed by Aditya Karikala - Mappedu, Pichivakkam and Anaikattaputhur. Out of them, historians seem to agree that the Anaikattaputhur temple is among the temples directly built by Aditya Karikala  - the others being the Adityeswara Temple at Keeraikalur in Tiruvarur District and Ponsei Natrunaiyappar Temple. (Source: Varalaatril Anaikattaputhur Thirukovilgal, Dr.Ma. Chandramoorthy, Prof.Dr. T. Kalyani, Prof. Dr.K.A.Kavitha)

Aditya Mahadevar at Anaikattaputhur

The deity here is referred to Aditya Mahadevar in an inscription from the 9th regnal year of Parthivendra Varman refers to lands given to the priest, Kalineeki Bhattan as Archana Bhogam for conducting prayers at the temple by Serubosan Ezhuvan and his brothers. Since this inscription mentions 9th ruling year, historians conclude that the temple must have been built by Aditya Karikala and grants to the same may have been provided during the time of his friend and feudatory Parthivendra Varman.

Nayaka Period Doorway - Doors and compound wall missing

The temple built originally during the Chola period, has been rebuilt with brick during the Nayaka period and we see that this too has become dilapidated and is being renovated at this point in time. The deity has been renamed as Ekambareshwara and a Goddess Kamakshi shrine added during the Nayaka period renovation. The sole inscription that has been documented in 1895 has been lost to time.

As you enter the very impressive massively high brick archway, you see the Chola period Nandi in a mandapa outside the temple. There are a couple of stones with images of snakes inscribed below which is said to be the samadhi of a saint named Nandi Siddhar. Nothing further is known about him.

Nandi Siddhar Samadhi

On entering the temple, the shrine of Goddess Kamakshi comes first. This is a later period addition to the temple,during the Nayaka renovation. The wall next to the Goddess shrine had fallen earlier and has now been repaired. During the Tamil months of Purattasi and Panguni, the sun's rays are seen falling on the Goddess as if to worship her.

Goddess Kamakshi at Anaikattaputhur

Lord Aditya Mahadevar is found in the sanctum sanctorum. Not a very large deity, but one with his own charm. The niches have the remains of the old Koshta devathas including a Narthana Ganapathy (unable to make out ), Dhakshinamurthy, Lingothbavar, Brahma and Durga soon to be replaced. I have made a request to store the old deities (new machine-cut miniatures are ready for installation) in the temple itself and not to throw them away.

Nardhana Ganapathi ??

The sanctum also houses the beautiful bronze icons of Nataraja with Shivakamasundari, Ganesha and other deities. Other stone idols of Chandra, Surya, Bhairavar and an idol is titled Veerabahu are found in the circumambulatory path within the temple. Subrahmanya, with Valli and Devasena is found in a seperate shrine.

Who is this? - Photo: Nisha Kesavan

The ceiling has a snake with the Sun and Moon on either side (Eclipse Iconography?), and a Fish swallowing an Elephant. (Not sure what this depicts)

In the circumambulatory path around the main shrine, an old Ganesha and a shrine for Lord Vishnu with his consorts Sridevi and Bhoodevi are found. They probably had individual temples in the village and have moved here over time, when their original habitats were lost.

Kalyana Perumal with consorts at Anaikattaputhur

About 200 metres from the temple is the samadhi of Saint Kumbakonam Gurupadha Swamigal who lived over 300 years ago. The samadhi attracts several serious seekers who visit here to meditate and have felt the divine presence of the saint. 

Samadhi of Kumbakonam Gurupadha Swamigal

Ongoing renovation work at the temple:

I have used pictures from my earlier trip in 2014 during the cultural mapping of Cooum temples, as the shrines are currently under Balalayam for renovation. The civil work inside the temple has been completed, However, the hereditary trustee is desirous of building a compound wall to safeguard the temple as well as construct a gopuram at the entrance, the cost of both along with Kumbabhishekam is estimated at around Rs. 20 lakhs. The renovation work has been on for over ten years now, and has stopped currently due to paucity of funds.

Renovation work underway at Anaikattaputhur

Those interested in supporting the work may contact the hereditary trustee, Mr Annamalai Mudaliar or contribute directly to the 

Adhithya Mahadevar Charitable Trust, 

Account Number: 356402010031698 

Bank and Branch: Union Bank, 13, Bazaar Street, Thakkolam - 631151 

IFSC code: UBIN0535648


How to reach here:

While going from Chennai, take a right after Saveetha Engineering College and continue on Arakonam Road upto Perambakkam. Take a right again on the Cooum bridge towards Perambakkam. Anaikattaputhur is about 4 kms from Perambakkam.

GPS Coordinates : 13.04741, 79.78562

Contact Details:

Mr Annamalai Mudaliar - 94447 29626, 97502 60484

Temple Timings:

Since the temple is currently under Balalayam, the priest comes only once a day for conducting poojas. The main temple is otherwise closed until the work is completed. Please contact the trustee before visiting.

Renovation under way at Anaikattaputhur






Tuesday, March 30, 2021

Sammohana Gopalan, Mohanur

Sri Sammohana Gopalan Shrine at Mohanur

 It was an article by Shri A M Rajagopalan, in Kumudam Jothidam that I read way back in 2007-08 that introduced me to Sammohana Gopalan. The article carried a picture of Krishna as Ardhanari with Radha occupying the left half of his body. 

The article further mentioned that worshipping Sammohana Gopalan and reciting the Sloka dedicated to him would bring about harmony in discordant couples. I pulled out the page and saved it more out of fancy for the form of Sammohana Gopala. Soon, a colleague spoke to me about a problem her niece was facing with her husband. The girl was newly married and had moved abroad. The husband however seemed disinterested in her. In a new land, with no friends or relatives to confide in or seek advice, the girl went into deep depression and finally my colleague could make her share what was bothering her. The girl had lost her father and was the older of two daughters. Realising her mother had gone through a lot of difficulty to get her married, and fearing the future of her younger sister, the girl somehow wanted to make her marriage work, but did not know how. 

When my colleague asked me for advice, I was immediately reminded of Sammohana Gopala and so gave her a copy of the picture and sloka asking her to send it to her niece. The girl  started chanting as many times as she could in a day and was worshipping the photograph of Sammohana Gopalan with sincerity. Very soon, her faith brought about changes in the boy and in a little over a year's time, they were travelling to India with their new born to offer thanks at the temple in Mohanur.

This was the first of four occasions over the years that followed. In each of the cases, praying to Sammohana Gopala with devotion gave the desired results. With every instance, my desire to visit Sammohana Gopala grew.  Last month, I had an opportunity to go to Dharapuram and so planned to go to Mohanur as well. 

Krishna with Bama and Rukmini at the Sammohana Gopalan Temple

The Sammohana Gopalan shrine is found within the Kalyana Prasanna Venkatramana Perumal temple in Mohanur. This temple is very famous for its Sathyanarayana Puja on Thiruvonam Star when people from all over India congregate at the temple and collect "Mattai Thengais" (Unskinned Coconuts) for prayers of education, marriage, going abroad etc. These coconuts are placed in the pooja room and worshipped until the prayers are answered. They are then brought back to the temple, skinned and  offered to the Lord.

The Lord though now known as Kalyana Prasanna Venkatramana Swamy was originally known as Mohana Srinivasan. Similarly, Lord Shiva in this Kshetram is known as Achaladeepeswarar. According to the old sthalapuranam, he is referred to as Kumareeswarar. Kumari refers to Mohini.  The Lord is called Mohana Srinivasan because of his nature to attract devotees with his divine beauty. He is seen to be one with Lakshmi as he only carries the Srivatsam on his chest instead of the form of Lakshmi. Because of him, the town came to be called Mohanur. Sammohana Gopala, a Rahasya manifestation of Lord Krishna on Rasapoornima day was installed here in a seperate shrine in the form of a portrait.

With more and more people benefitting out of the worship of this very unique form, an idol was consecrated in the year 2013.

The form of Sammohana Gopalan:

The form of Sammohana Gopalan

The deity has a peacock feather on his crown on the right side, and a Kondai (hair bun) with a long plait on the left. The ears sport different earrings. There are four arms on each side. The rear arms hold Shanku (Conch) and Chakra (Discus). The Chakra destroys pain, suffering, negativity and evil. The Shanku denotes victory over evil, not losing your cool during troubled times and joy.

The two arms in the middle hold an Ankusham (an elephant goad) and a lotus flower respectively. The Ankusham is used by the Mahout to control an elephant when he loses his senses. Similarly, the Lord controls the ego and failure of intelligence between the couple to restore harmony in their lives. The Lotus is made up of the flower which denotes the wife and the stem which denotes the husband. The core of the flower represents Dhampadya Dharma which attaches the flower to the stem . The petals are dependents or family members who surround the couple. 

The Lower arms hold a sugarcane bow and a Pushpabana (an arrow made of flowers) these are the tools of Kama (the God of Love) and Sammohana Gopala holds them to rekindle romance in the life of the couple. The fourth set of hands hold the flute from which he is said to play the Mohana Ragam, to unite the couple and make them focus on true love instead of materialistic needs.

Praying to Sri Sammohana Gopalan:

Couples seeking to overcome marital problems must follow the below mentioned protocol:

Place the Sammohana Gopalan image facing East. Light a lamp with ghee and offer a glass of milk, Kalkandu (Rock Candy) and white scented flowers. Chant the Sammohana Gopalan Dhayana Slokam given below 12 times and circumambulate the image and the lamp 12 times. Consume the milk and rock candy as prasadam. Do this for 16 weeks.

Those seeking childbirth, come to the temple after performing Kula Deivam worship on Thursdays for sixteen weeks and offer Mullaipoo to Sammohana Gopalan. They are given butter offered to Samohana Gopala as prasadam to be consumed.

For those who are unable to visit every week, the priest takes care of the offerings on their behalf after the first week, while they continue their prayers from their residences. They come back to the temple on the 16th week and then again after their prayers are answered.

Apart from Sammohana Gopalan, the temple has several other shrines such as Kalyana Prasanna Venkatramana Swamy, Goddess Padmavathi, Dhanvatri with a wooden Navagraha Panel under which the devotees receive a Churnam to relieve them of ailments, Lakshmi Hayagriva with Medha Saraswathi facing him, Lakshmi Varahar, Lakshmi Narasimhar and Hanuman.

Dhanvatri at Sammohana Gopalan Temple

Sri Sammohana Gopala Dhyana Slokam:

Sri Krishnam Kamalapatraksham Divya Abharana Bhooshitam

Thribhangi Lalithaakaram Athi Sundara Mohanam

Bhagam Dakshinam Purusham Anyam Stree Roopinyam Thatha

Shankam Chakram Chaankusham cha Pushpa Baanam cha Pankajam

Ikshu Chapam Venu Vadhyam Cha Dhaarayantham Bhujaashtake

Swetha Gandhaanu Lipthaangam Pushpa Vastra Sragujvalam

Sarva Kaamartha Sidhyartham Mohanam Sri Krishnam Aasraye 


For those who wish to recite this poem in Tamil, poet Diwakara Tanujaha has penned a simple Tamil pasuram which has the essence of the Dhyana Slokam.

கன்னலின் சிலையும் கவின்மலர்க் கணையும் 

கஞ்சமுங் களிறு கட்டுமங் குசமும் 

மின்னுசக் கரமும் மிளிறுவெண் சங்கும் 

மெருகுசெவ் வதரம் மருவுமங் குழலின் 

இன்னிசைக் கூட்டி எண்கரத் தானாய் 

இடப்புறம் மங்கை வலப்புறமா ணாய் 

சென்னியில் கொண்டை பீலியுங் காண 

சிரித்தவ தனசம் மோகனக் காரன் 

மென்வெளிர் சாந்தம் மேனிபூ வாடை'

முத்திறம் வளைந்த மூர்த்தியாய் வந்து 

மன்னுவார் காதல் மணத்திறம் காக்க 

மோகனூர் நின்றான் மோகியார் உண்டோ? 

Our sincere thanks to him. For more such pasurams on lesser known Vishnu shrines, do check out our book " Paadal Perum Paranthaman Aalayangal" in Tamil on https://knightshopper.com/product/paadal-perum-paranthaaman-aalayangal/

How to reach: Mohanur is a village on the banks of the river Cauvery in Namakkal district of Tamil Nadu. The temple is located in the Mohanur Agraharam. Mohanur is about 19 kms from Namakkal

Temple Timings: 7 am to 12 pm, 5 pm to 8 pm

Contact details: Sridhar Bhattacharyar - 94429 57143 


Saturday, March 27, 2021

Dharapuram Dasa Anjaneya Darisanam Part 4 - Miracles Happen!





Amaravathi river near Veeraraghavapuram Agraharam

I had mentioned in Part 3 about how we were unable to see the Vyasaraja Hanumans in Veeraraghavapuram and Bheemaraya Agraharams as the temples were closed. Two other Hanumans are in the middle of cultivated fields and hence could not be witnessed, as there was no access. After I returned to Chennai, the Hanumans were still in my mind.

When there is a very strong and genuine desire, the Universe finds a way to grant it to you. Every year, through Aalayam Kanden Trust, the Sthalapuranam of a temple is written in Tamil and English and multiple copies (500-1000) are printed for free distribution at that temple. This year, it had to be Kadu Hanumantharaya Swamy temple. The Dasa Hanumans had become very close to my heart and I wanted to go back - to see if there was a chance to see the other Hanumans.

Soon the books were ready, and I got in touch with the Chairman of the temple to see if he could help me to visit the closed temple in Veeraraghavapuram Agraharam. He was kind enough to give me the number of the trustee. Mohan, the young man who had helped me during the first visit, got all excited, for he too had not visited these temples, despite staying locally. So he got on the job of following up to see if the temple can be opened. But the answer was negative - reasons given were fair enough - the stability of the shrine and the snakes crawling about in and around the temple. 

Well, the day dawned and I set off to Dharapuram to deliver the books. Mohan had asked me to come first to Bheemaraya Agraharam as the small shrine behind the Arasamarathadi Hanuman which had another Vyasaraja Hanuman closed early. He even went over to hold the priest while we arrived. 


The Hanuman here is much smaller than those we have seen before, but with the same characteristics as identified with Vyasaraja Hanumans. As I stood praying before him, thanking him for the darshan, and asking the most significant question on my mind - will we get to see the Veeraraghavapuram Agraharam Hanuman, Mohan was already on the job. He had gone to meet the Chief priest of the temple in the room next door. The other priest seemed to read my mind - " I have been here for over ten years now. I have not seen the Veeraraghavapuram temple open", he said. My husband had already started convincing me to move on - "It is the same Hanuman everywhere, whether you worship him here or there" he said, stopping short when I glared at him.

The wait seemed endless, not knowing where Mohan was. I decided to go into the Chief Priest's room to find out what was going on, as the husband was getting impatient now. The moment I stepped in, what I saw made me catch my breath. Mohan was not there. But, there was a Brindavana inside the room, and a picture of my Guru Sri Raghavendra Swamy right next to it. It was as though the delay had been deliberate to invite me into the room. Why havent you asked me to help, he seemed to be asking me. As I stood frozen in my tracks, the man in the room welcomed me in a soft voice. 

Guru Bhakti Nidhi Theertha Brindavana

Coming to my senses, I introduced myself. When I mentioned that I had come back specifically to visit the two Hanumans and while I was glad to have seen the Bheemaraya Agrahara Hanuman, I would be delighted if I could also visit the Veeraraghavapuram Agrahara, he smiled understandingly. "I used to be the priest at that temple. That agraharam is the oldest in Dharapuram but was completely destroyed by floods in the Amaravathi river. People who lived there moved to safer locations. Since there were no houses nearby, the temple became uncared for and has lost its stability. Over the last forty-five years, several efforts have been taken to repair it, but nothing has been possible" he said. 

I was looking at the picture of Guru Raghavendra Swamy as he spoke, beseeching him to somehow help. " I have asked Mohan to go to the trustee's house in the same road, and ask if the temple can be opened for you. He should be back soon", he said. " I am a Government employee, and perform the poojas to the Hanumans, and this Brindavana in my free time as a volunteer, which is why the temple closes early" he said. Is this Raghavendra Swamy's Mrithika Brindavana? I asked. " No, this is the Brindavana of Shri Guru Bhakthi Nidhi Theertha. He was a Sanyasi who had great respect and devotion for Guru Raghavendra Swamy. When the Kadu Hanumantharaya Swamy temple was closed due to Cholera in the city, he was the one who opened it and started prayers not fearing a threat to his own life" he said. I prayed silently to the Mahaan and just at that moment, my phone rang. It was Mohan. "Akka, the trustee has agreed. I am coming with the keys" he said in an excited voice.

I could not believe my ears. As I got up to thank the priest for having arranged for the temple to be opened, I asked him his name. " I am Raghavendra", he said with a smile - everyone knows me as "Guru". Tears started flowing involuntarily, as I prostrated before the Brindavana. He had come, my Guru had come to guide me - through the priest and through the untiring efforts of Mohan.

Soon, we were getting into our vehicles to go over to the Veeraraghavapuram Agraharam. A senior gentleman who has been the most recent priest at the temple was accompanying us with the keys. The other priest at Bheemaraya Agraharam too wanted to join, as he had never been there. While getting into the car, I asked the senior gentleman his name "Vijayendra" he said. It was a true goosebumps moment, for not only was Guru Raghavendra facilitating things, he was sending a representative in the name of his Parama Guru to accompany us. Can there be any boundaries to a Guru's grace when surrender happens?

Discarded Snake Skin on the way to the temple

We got down at the dead end of the lane next to the Corporation park and started walking along the field bunds to the temple. Snake skin, as long as eight to ten feet, lay here and there, making us place our steps with caution. I was not even looking in the direction of the husband, as I was pretty sure he would glare at me for putting myself and others at risk. Nothing mattered at that point more than opening the temple and worshipping the Hanuman.

The Veeraraghavapuram Agraharam Temple completely swallowed by vegetation

As we drew close, we could see the beauty of the Check dam built over the Amaravathi river on one side, and a small temple, completely swallowed by vegetation on the other. The wall on one side had fallen and the roots of the tree had penetrated the ceiling making it unstable and unsafe for people to enter. The priest stood shaking the iron door multiple times, just to make sure the creepy crawlies moved away. He then opened the door. 

The entrance to the temple at Veeraraghavapuram Agraharam

Inside the dark sanctum, was a frail looking Hanuman. His limbs had been eroded so much that they looked like bones and yet there was no mistaking the energy reverberating within. Several people still come and worship or cook offering outside the closed doors, says the lady whose fields are adjacent to the temple. They have been appealing to the local administration to create access to the temple, so that there is some movement of people which could result in its renovation.
Veeraraghavapuram Agraharam Hanuman

The idol looks bone dry, and there are no signs of any materials of worship. There used to be four Hanumans in this temple, says the priest. We go around the small temple, admiring the fish motifs on the walls and looking for inscriptions if any.

I stand for a long time before the Hanuman, thanking him for his grace, for allowing us to see him, and praying that we soon meet in a better environment. If He so decides, a way will surely be found!



There are still two Vyasaraja Hanumans hidden away in the middle of cultivated fields. " The fields are being harvested Akka, we should soon be able to see them. I will send pictures" smiles Mohan as he heads back to drop the priests and we get into our car to proceed on our journey home.

Roots penetrating everywhere

If he so wills, so be it! Miracles do happen! All we need is to hold on firmly to our Guru!

To read the other parts of this four part series, click here:



Friday, February 12, 2021

Dharapuram Dasa Anjaneya Darisanam - Part 3

This is the third in the series of articles on the ten Vyasaraja Hanumans of Dharapuram. Please click here to access Part 1 and here for Part 2.

After visting the Kadu Hanumantharaya Swamy temple, which is the central temple for all the ten Hanumans, and then proceeding towards the Uttara Veeraraghava Swamy temple, where we worshipped Veera Hanuman and Kottai Vaasal Hanuman, we were in a dilemma as to which direction to proceed next. To the North was Virajimangalam, now known  as Veerachimangalam and to the South was Dalavoypattinam. The remaining five Hanumans were around the Kadu Hanumantharaya Swamy temple.

We decided to proceed to Dalavoypattinam which is about ten kilometres from Dharapuram. 

4. Dalavoypattinam Hanuman

Sri Varadaraja Perumal, Dalavoypattinam

The Varadaraja Perumal temple here houses a Vyasaraja Hanuman. Inscription found in this temple from the third year of Pandya King Sri Vallabha describe the deity as Jayamkonda Chola Vinnagar Emberumanaar. Another fragmentary inscription which only names the king asThribhuvanachakravarti Ko... calls him Naraiyanur Nattu Devanayakaperumal.

Dalavoypattinam Hanuman

Currently this temple has only two shrines - that of Varadaraja Perumal with Sridevi and Bhoodevi and of the Hanuman installed by Vyasaraja. The Hanuman is smaller than the ones we have seen so far. He is seen with the typical raised right arm in Abhaya Hasta and the left arm holding the Sowgandhika flower. 

How to reach here: The Varadaraja Perumal Temple is found near the Government Hospital in Dalavoypattinam. The GPS coordinates of all ten Hanuman shrines can be found at the bottom of this article.

Temple Timings: The temple is only open between 8 - 9.30 am in the mornings and 5-7 pm in the evenings. On Saturdays, the Bhattars are available until 10.30 - 11 am depending on the crowd.

Contact: Rangaraja Bhattar - 99764 62736

5. Veeraraghavapura Agrahara Hanuman

Veeraghavapura Agrahara Hanuman

As it was our first visit and with no one to guide us about the right order to visit, we went about  randomly which we realised was a mistake. Some shrines closed early, while others could not be approached because of their location.

It would have helped us better if we had started with the sites that closed early and then gone to the larger temples which remained open longer. Therefore, another visit is warranted to complete the ones that could not be visited this time. 

Now coming back to where we left off, we came back to the Kadu Hanumantharaya Swamy temple area, to visit the remaining Hanumans before proceeding towards Viranjimangalam (now called Veerachimangalam) which is to the North.

All the ten Hanumans have originally been installed in the open. Some have been subsequently covered with a shrine, while most still remain in the open.

Our next stop was across the road from the Kadu Hanumantharaya Swamy temple. There is a park some distance away and the lane right next to the park leads to a Hanuman temple after a drive of about a kilometre and a half. Although this Hanuman has a shrine, apparently the shrine had closed the priests had left for the day. The approach is also through the fields for about half a kilometre by foot. While we stopped at the beginning of the bund on which one has to walk to reach the temple, we found Mr Mohan and his family coming back after checking out the temple. They not only told us about the current situation, but also offered to help us visit the other shrines that were left out. Thanks to Mr Mohan's kindness we were able to quickly visit the remaining sites and worship at the ones that were open.

6 & 7. Arasamarathadi Hanuman and Bheemaraya Agrahara Hanuman 

Arasamarathadi Hanuman with the Bheemaraya Hanuman shrine behind it

From the Veeraraghavapura Agrahara Hanuman temple, we moved towards the old Bheemaraya Agraharam. This road has not been mentioned on Google Maps and therefore but for Mr Mohan's help we would not have been able to find it. There are two Hanumans here - One under a peepal tree close to the Amaravathi river, giving it the name Arasamarathadi Hanuman and the other in a shrine behind it. Unfortunately when we reached, the shrine had already closed and therefore we were only able to worship the beautiful Arasamara Hanuman.

8 & 9. Theppakula Hanuman and Amaravathi Hanuman

The Amaravathi River

Two Hanumans are found in the open about a kilometre away from here, right in the middle of the fields. One can reach them only by walking along the Amaravathi river and currently since the crops are fully grown, there was no path available to walk through. Only after harvesting can these temples be approached.

10. Veerachimangalam Hanuman

Our last stop was at Veerachimangalam. Again we would not have been able to identify this location, but for Mr Mohan who drove back all the way with us, just to show us the temple, eventhough he had already covered it.

The Veerachimangalam Hanuman

The Veerachimangalam Hanuman shrine is found next to the Shiva temple. This temple is currently closed for renovation and a new shrine is being built outside. The Hanuman shrine has been left untouched but is not in anyway controlled, maintained or patronised by the Siva temple. The Octogenarian priest is helpless. Since he does not receive any devotees at the temple nor any funds for its daily upkeep and maintenance, he keeps the temple closed unless someone specifically asks for it to be opened for worship. Even after opening the shrine, he had to search a bit to find a piece of camphor to perform the harathi. Since this was our last stop, we too had given away all the oil and ghee we had carried for distribution. 

A humble request to the devotees who plan to visit this temple. Please carry pooja materials and contribute whatever you can to the priest. Even at this advanced age, he is taking care of the temple and doing whatever he can to keep it going.

How to reach here: Veerachimangalam is about 6 kms from Dharapuram. The locations of all ten sites have been marked here

Temple Timings: There are no specific timings. The priest and his wife stay close by and the temple can be opened on request.

Contact: Shri Namperumal Bhattar - 90474 89370

Thursday, February 11, 2021

Dharapuram Dasa Anjaneya Darisanam - Part 2

Uttara Veeraraghava Perumal Temple, Dharapuram

This is the second  in the series of articles on the ten Hanumans installed by Saint Vyasaraja Theertha, (the Rajaguru of the Vijayanagara Empire during the time of King Krishnadevaraya, believed to be the reincarnation of Prahalada and the previous avatara of Guru Sri Raghavendraswamy) in and around Dharapuram in Tiruppur District of Tamil Nadu.

Saint Vyasaraja installed 732 such Hanumans during his travels across India. He would draw the image of Hanuman on a piece of stone using his Angarakatti which would then become a sculpture. Angaram is used by Madhwas to mark their forehead before eating food. It is prepared by burning dry banana peel and adding turmeric and ash from the pooja into it. This is then kept on the forehead prior to consuming prasada.  

Out of the ten Hanumans, the first, Kadu Hanumantharaya Swamy was covered in an earlier article which can be found here.

The ten Hanumans in Dharapuram are spread in clusters. One key suggestion while visiting them is to make sure you cover the ones that are open for shorter durations first, before visiting the larger temples that stay open for longer. 

From the Kadu Hanumantharaya Swamy temple, we proceeded to the Uttara Veeraraghava Perumal temple in the fort area. There are two Vyasaraja Hanumans here - Veera Anjaneyar and Kottaivasal Anjaneyar.

On the way to the Veera Anjaneya Swamy Shrine

In India, there are multiple locations that associate themselves with legends such as Ramayana and Mahabharatha. In the Mahabharatha, the Pandava princes were required to stay incognito for a year and they chose to do so in the Virata Kingdom. Places that are referred to as Viratapuri or Viratapuram are found in Rajasthan, Jammu & Kashmir, Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu.

Lion pillared mandapa at the Uttara Veeraraghava Swamy Temple, Dharapuram

Dharapuram in the ancient times was also known as Viratapuram. It is commonly believed that this was the place where the Pandavas stayed incognito for a year under the protection of the Virata King whose children Uttara Kumara and Uttara were named after the Uttara Veeraraghava Perumal. The Uttara Veeraraghava Perumal temple is found within the Dharapuram fort and it was here that the Kings who ruled over this region coronated themselves. The Lord is also known as Uttaravu Raghava Perumal, for it is with his permission that the Kings would ascend the throne. Moreover, Dharapuram is found on a straight line to Mantralayam, where the Brindavana of Guru Sri Raghavendraswamy is found, making it even more significant.

Inscription mentioning Rajarajapuram in the Uttara Veeraraghava Perumal Temple

There are several inscriptions in this temple, that speak about Dharapuram and the kings who ruled over it. Dharapuram was earlier called Naraiyanur Nattu Brahmadeyam Rajadhiraja Chaturvedimangalam, Naraiyanur Nattu Rajarajapuram and Kongu Vanchiyaana Viladapuram. The Lord was called Uttaraghava Perumal and inscriptions also speak about Goddess Perumkarunai Selvi. These inscriptions have been documented by the ASI in the Annual reports on Indian Epigraphy - 1910, 1920 and 1961-62 as well as Tiruppur Mavatta Kalvettugal published by the TN State Archaeology department. They speak about the grants provided by the Kongu Cholas and Vijayanagara rulers as well as generals to the Uttara Veeraraghava Perumal Temple.

The Lord Veeraraghava Perumal is seen alone in the sanctum without his consorts. Instead of holding the Conch and Discus in his hands,they are found on his chest which is a unique feature about this deity.

Sri Uttara Veeraraghava Perumal, Dharapuram

Several wars that happened around this place have damaged the temple and one can see stones with inscriptions from a Siva temple been used while rebuilding the temple. Chadran, who works in the Revenue Department, shares that for best part of his childhood, the temple remained dilapidated and uncared for. He recalls a secret passage close to the sanctum sanctorum which used to be dark and as children they would attempt to explore if it lead out of the fort area. This secret passage has been documented by the archaeology experts as well and subsequently closed. 

2. Veera Anjaneya Swamy

Veera Anjaneya Swamy, Dharapuram

The Veera Anjaneya Swamy installed by Vyasaraja is found in a seperate shrine outside the main temple complex. The Lord is found with a child-like face, facing the South. Instead of a bloomed Sowgandhika flower as normally depicted in Vyasaraja Hanumans, he is seen holding an entire bunch of them. The tail above has a single bell tied to it and the Vaishnavaite symbols - Conch, Discus and Naamam are also found on the idol.The Veera Anjaneya Swamy was found in the open until 2004 when a shrine was constructed for him.

3. Kottai Vaasal Anjaneyar

The third among the ten Anjaneyars is found about 100 metres from the Uttara Veeraraghava Perumal Temple right next to a sixteen pillar Vasantha Mandapa from the Vijayanagara Period. It is indeed painful to see this beautiful mandapa being eaten away by vegetation due to lack of upkeep and maintenance.

The dilapidated Vasantha Mandapa from the Vijayanagara Period

The Kottai Vaasal Anjaneyar is perhaps the most beautiful among the ones I had witnessed in Dharapuram. With a baby face, he faces the North while his feet are pointed in the direction of the Uttara Veeraraghava Perumal.  He is seen bare headed, with one arm raised above in Abhaya Hastha and the other holding the Sowgandhika flower. His long earlobes are found wearing Kundalams and the jewellery on his chest has the Yaali which is the Mudrika of  SriVyasaraja.

The beautiful Kottai Vaasal Anjaneyar

He is supposed to have been the guardian deity of the fort while it existed. Today, he is seen in a small shrine encroached by houses on all directions. The same priest who performs pooja to the Veera Anjaneya Swamy also takes care of this shrine. He is available in this temple after the Veera Anjaneya Swamy temple closes. 

How to reach hereThe GPS coordinates for all ten Hanumans is provided in this map here.

Temple Timings: The Veera Anjaneya Swamy temple is open between 8 am and 11 am in the mornings and the Kottai Vaasal Anjaneyar opens after that from 11 am to 12 pm. However, the deity can be worshipped through the gate at any time of the day.

Contact: Suresh Bhattar - 80988 71563

The third part of this series on the other Vyasaraja Hanumans in Dharapuram can be accessed here