Shrines of Ladakh - Part 1 - Gurudwara Pathar Sahib

 Recently I had an opportunity to visit Ladakh along with the lovely group of travellers brought together by Balaji Davey of Mantra Yatra. The trip ranged between 12000 and 18000 feet, across peaks and valleys, rivers and palaces, monasteries and tents, providing the group with a kaleidoscope of visuals. Ladakh is definitely a must-visit for all Indians. The sombre Himalayan desert, the difficult terrain and altitudes and the trying conditions of the Siachen Glacier in which our brave soldiers guard our borders is a live lesson in patriotism and our respect for their sacrifice and selflessness is bought to go up many notches after a visit here.

The week had its highs and lows, sometimes testing our physical endurance and patience, while exhilarating us with never-before experiences. The shrines that we visited and their spiritual vibrations particularly played a calming effect in an otherwise tough geography.

As usual, I am attempting to document some of the shrines we visited during our trip. I do hope I am able to complete this series on time.

1. Gurudwara Pathar Sahib:

Extenal view of the Gurudwara Pathar Sahib

Gurudwara Pathar Sahib, that stands testimony to a miracle performed by Guru Nanak Dev, the founder and the first Guru of the Sikhs, is found about 25 kms away from Leh on the Leh - Srinagar Highway (NH1). 

Legend:

It is believed the Guru Nanak arrived in Leh in 1517 after touring Tibet, Nepal and Sikkim. He stayed where the Gurudwara now stands, close to the river bank where people would gather for his sermons. The Tibetans called him Gompka Maharaj and in Sikkim he was referred to as Rimpoche Nanak Guru.

When the people gathered to hear Guru Nanak ji speak, they complained to him about the troubles they were facing with a demon. They prayed to their Nanak Lama to prevent the demon from terrorizing them so that they can resume their regular work without fear. Guru Nanak ji consoled the local people and said that he would pray so that their troubles with the demon would be solved permanently.

On hearing this, the demon decided to kill Guru Nanak ji. So that evening when we sat in meditation, the demon rolled a huge boulder down the hill towards Guru Nanak ji. The Guru sat in meditation, oblivious to the danger approaching. When the boulder touched the body of Guru Nanak ji, it turned pliable like wax, taking in the impression of his head, shoulders and back. Wanting to know what had happened to the Guru, the demon came downhill, hoping to find him trapped underneath the boulder.

Boulder bearing impression of Guru Nanak ji's body 
Photo: Sikhiwiki.org

However, when he found that nothing had happened to the Guru and that he was meditating peacefully, he kicked the boulder with his right foot, and found that his foot impression was also registered on the boulder as if it had been made of wax. Hearing the thud, Guru Nanak ji opened his eyes. He found the demon before him. When the demon was engulfed in the compassionate glance of the Guru, he realised his powerlessness before the spiritual powers of the Guru, and regretted having atempted to kill him. He fell at the Guru's feet, seeking forgiveness. Guru Nanak ji asked him to stop harassing the local people and urged him to spend his time in serving others. 

Impression of the Demon's foot on the boulder at Gurudwara Pathar Sahib
Photo: Sikhiwiki.org

Construction of Gurudwara in the late 1970s:

A couple of centuries later, in the late 1970s the Leh - Nimmu Road was being laid. While the work was being carried out, they found a huge boulder in the course of the road to be laid, covered with Buddhist prayer flags. The bulldozer driver tried his might to remove the boulder from the course of the road, but it would not budge. When he put the entire might of the machine into the effort, the blade broke and the work had to be stopped. Not understanding why the boulder was unyielding, the driver went home. That night, he had a dream where he heard a voice telling him not to move the stone. 

In the morning, he narrated his dream to the army officer who was supervising the road laying work. The officer, thought the driver was overreacting and asked him to move the boulder without worrying too much. But as the day before, the boulder refused to budge. At the end of day, the army officer told the weary team, that they would blow up the boulder with dynamite the next day. That night, he too had the same dream as the driver, with a voice telling him not to move the boulder.

Puzzled, he got up the next day and went to the site, where a group of Lamas were waiting for him. They had been tasked with narrating to the army officer and his team, the story of Guru Nanak Dev and the boulder that had been rolled down by the demon. On hearing the tale, the team decided to leave the boulder where it was, and build the road around it. A Gurudwara was built instead and till date, the Indian Army is maintaining it.

The Gurudwara:

At the entrance of the Gurudwara

The Gurudwara has a spacious parking facility and has a waiting hall with a seperate enclosure for storing footwear. Cloth to cover one's head is also available in a box outside. The complex comprises of a long pathway and meditation hall at the ground level and a meditation hall uphill.

The main shrine comprises of the boulder which still bears the impression of the body of Guru Nanak Dev. The vibration within the meditation hall is really strong and several military men and civilians can be seen meditating here. The place is truly divine, bearing testimony to the divine presence of Guru Nanak ji. 

The Gurudwara also has a Langar where Prasad is available - amazing rotis, langar dal and subji is served by military men who volunteer their services here. The path leading from the langar dining hall to the entrance is lined with inscription stones that speak about various offerings made to the Gurudwara by the different battalions to celebrate their military successes.

Inscription stones mentioning the offerings made by different battalions

Just like any other Gurudwara, no one returns hungry from here. Tea, and Boondi Laddus are available close to the entrance for anyone passing by to partake. All vehicles passing by the Gurudwara stop for a few seconds here as a token of respect to Guru Nanak Dev ji. The Pathar Sahib Gurudwara is close to the Magnetic Hill, Sangam, the confluence of Indus and Zanskar Rivers and the Hall of Fame in Leh and hence well within the tourist circuit. So if you are in Leh, do not miss visiting here!

Opening Hours: 4.15 am to 8.30 pm

 Langar timings: 8 am, 12 pm