Shrines of Ladakh - Part III - Diskit Monastery, Nubra Valley

 

The beauty of Nubra Valley as seen in Diksit

In the series of posts I have been writing in Aalayam Kanden on the shrines of Ladakh, which I had an opportunity to visit with Mantra Yatra in August 2024, the third post is on the Diskit Monastery, the oldest and largest monastery in Diksit in Nubra Valley. You can access the earliest posts here: Part 1 & Part II.

Nubra, in the North eastern part of Ladakh bordering Baltistan, is among the latest districts announced by the Central Government in August 2024. Its Tibetan name is Dumra which means the valley of flowers. The inhabited areas of the Nubra Valley are cut by the Shyok and Nubra (also known as Siachen)rivers.

At the mighty Khardung La

One can reach the Nubra Valley through Khardung La Pass, the second highest motorable road in the world at an altitude of 17,982 feet. The majority of people in the Nubra valley are Buddhist. In the Western end of the Nubra Valley lies the Line of Control between India and Pakistan. Nubra is a high altitude Himalayan desert, home to the Bactrian double-humped camels, with tourist attractions being the sand dunes, the Diskit Monastery, Turtuk village in Baltistan and Thang, the last village in India next to the line of control. 

Riding Bactrian Camels in Nubra Valley

Diskit is the headquarters of Nubra. The oldest and largest monastery here is the Chamba Gompa, shrine of the Maitreya Buddha. The monastery has a 108 feet Buddha facing the Shyok river, towards Pakistan. This statue of the future Buddha is said to have bee installed with three aims - Protection of Diskit, Promotion of world peace, and Prevention of future wars between India and its border nations.

The approach up to the Maitreya Buddha is surreal with numerous prayer wheels found to the right. The monastery itself is said to have been founded in the 14th century by Changzem Tserab Zangpo, a disciple of Tsong Khapa, the founder of the Gelugpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism. His huge idol is found in the Lachung temple at a slightly higher altitude that the Diksit Monastery.

A view of the Diskit Monastery Photo Courtesy: Wikipedia

The monastery has several shrines and several ancient Mongolian and Tibetan texts have been preserved here. An interesting legend with the Diksit Monastery is that of a Mongolian demon that lived where the monastery now exists. The demon was a sworn enemy of Buddhism and used to trouble the monks who came here to meditate. Even after he was annihilated nearby, and the monastery was built, his body kept appearing again and again in and around the monastery. Therefore, in order to prevent him from resurrecting again, his mortal remains were given in the custody of Goddess Kali, the annihilator of all evil. In one of the shrines, to this day, is found a huge idol of Kali, holding a shrunken head and an arm, which is said to belong to the Mongol Demon.

Boddhisatva in the main prayer hall

The main prayer hall has a huge drum and several frescos, murals and guardian deities. The highlight of the monastery however, is the majestic Maitreya Buddha, that looms large at 32 metres. The construction of the huge Maitreya Buddha (future Buddha) commenced in April 2006 and was consecrated in July 2010 by the Dalai Lama.

Maitreya Buddha, is the anticipated successor of Gautama Buddha. The word Maitreya means " Loving Kindness" and Buddhist sculptures expect this Maitreya Buddha to emerge when the existing Buddhist teachings are fading from memory. Maitreya Buddha is said to exist in Tushita Heaven, a celestial realm where Boddhisatvas await their final human incarnation before attaining Buddhahood. He is expected to be the fifth and final Buddha of this Yuga, and the central figure of Mahayana Buddhism.

The magnificent Maitreya Buddha

Maitreya Buddha is a gorgeous noble figure, decorated in rich royal robes and adorned with a crown and jewels. He is shown either sitting or standing and in many depictions, holding a Kamandalu, in a position of readiness to descend to the Earth. In Chinese culture, the Maitreya Buddha is equated with the Laughing Buddha, a genial figure with a large belly and a filled sack over his shoulder, depicting contentment, joy and prosperity.

One of the major attractions of the Diksit Monastery is the Festival of the Scapegoat, known as the Dosmoche Festival celebrated in the month of February every year. At this time, the clothes that cover the faces of the idols for the rest of the year are removed and a mask dance titled Cham Dance is performed by the monks during which images made of dough are thrown out to symbolise all evil going out and all goodness and peace prevailing. 

Mask Dance during Dosmoche Festival Photo Courtesy: Ministry of Tourism

How to get here: One can reach Nubra Valley from Leh by road through Khardung La and the Shyok river. The best times of the year to visit is between July to September.

Timings of the Diksit Monastery: The Maitreya Buddha is massive and can be viewed from far. The monastery and its shrines are open between 7 am and 1 pm and then again from 2 pm to 7 pm.